The key to a good setup includes holders that keep rods in the boat, rods are easy to
reach, and holders allowing easy rod removal when there is a bite or a fish is on. (Photo: Tim Huffman)
Rod Holder Basics, A Critical Detail
by Tim Huffman
Just like everything else in the fishing industry, rod holders have advanced significantly.
Crappie fishermen in the 1970’s and 80’s, when spider-rigging was in its infancy, often had a 2×4 attached across the front of the boat with clamp-on holders for placing their poles.
Next came better equipment starting with rod holders. Nothing was more important for keeping poles in the proper position, easy to reach and obviously, in the boat.
One of the early, quality rod holders came from South Carolina where catfishermen needed a heavy-duty holder that would keep rods in the boat when a big Santee Cooper catfish grabbed it. Driftmaster Rodholders was born in 1980 and has been a force in the rod holder industry ever since, no matter which species a fisherman is after. Today, David Baynard, a second-generation owner, has a whole lineup of holders, racks, and accessories.
Installation
Installation is simple but requires several important steps. If you miss one, the end result won’t be a comfortable, efficient system. As an example, Baynard shares the steps he recommends for a proper installation of a T-Bar rack and holders for spider rigging.
- “The first step is determining which setup you want,” says Baynard. “You must decide how you are going to fish. It’s best to know the technique, or multiple techniques, you will be using. Will you fish by yourself or with someone? If you’re not sure, it’s best to rig for two so it won’t be a problem later if someone goes with you. These early decisions are important.”
“Buy the products. Assemble the rack and holders. Check everything to make sure they are what you like and will work in your boat.
- “When preparing for spider rigging, take the new rack and holders to your boat, along with a pole you will be using. Get in the seat on the front deck. Put a pole in a holder with the but sticking out about two inches. Place the rack and holder where the rod butt is two to six inches in front of your knees. The right distance is enough room to swivel in your seat but as close as possible for easy, quick access to the rod handles for setting the hook.” Baynard says there are other factors. After getting the holders where you want them, be sure you can see your electronics. Also, make sure your trolling motor will raise up and down. A Driftmaster T-bar system allows the rack to be turned parallel to the trolling motor and quickly repositioned when the motor is put back down. Whatever system you choose, make sure your trolling motor will raise and lower.
- “When T-Bar is positioned in the final location, use a Magic Marker to mark its position. Take the T-Bar apart and use the base as a drill guide. Put the base where you want it to be located while drilling 3/16-inch holes for the 1/4-inch screws. Drill one hole at a time and put a screw in. Never drill all the holes and then put the screws in because they will likely be off a little.
“We also have a flush-mount base that many fishermen like because a fisherman can remove a rack or holder and not have to worry about tripping over the base in the boat. That requires a hole to be drilled in the middle of the base location to allow for the thread portion to be recessed. For that, drill the middle hole first, then drill one screw hole at a time adding a screw each time.”
Drilling Holes & Other Tips
Drilling or cutting into the boat can be scary for a do-it-yourselfer. Drill in the wrong spot and it could cause major damage. What are your tips?
“There are two important things when drilling. First, don’t drill into the fuel tank. That can lead to obvious problems. Secondly, know exactly where your wiring harnesses are located because you don’t want to drill into them. That’s about it.
“I know drilling holes in an expensive boat can be scary. I used to worry a lot about it, but I’ve done it enough it doesn’t bother me now. Just remember your boat has holes for its seats, holes for the trolling motor bracket and all the electronics. Your boat has many holes, so a few more won’t hurt anything providing you are careful to know what you’re drilling into.”
A boat can take a pounding on the water and bouncing on the highway. Do screws need a sealer or Loctite on them?
“A lot of people ask that question, but you don’t have to worry about a screw backing out. Rain is not a major issue either. A tiny amount of water may get in through a flush-mount base, but nothing to worry about. All compartments in a boat will have some condensation and places where rain might get in even when it’s not supposed to get in.”
What about side and rear racks and holders?
“The basics are the same. Locate the holders where you can quickly reach a rod. Consider a fishing situation. Can you reach your rod without reaching too much or tripping? All that matters is getting to a rod when you get a strike.
“For the back deck, we make a corner holder that allows two holders for poles out the side, and a 45-degree angle and directly out the back. The one rack allows for fishing out the side or back, or both at the same time. For fishermen who fish from the back of the boat, it is a strong system that can be positioned for efficient fishing. Like all the others, be sure to know what is under the deck where you are drilling.”
Closing
There are different brands of racks and holders. Be sure to get one that fits your needs and will hold up forever. Take time to mount them properly so you can enjoy your fishing experience and catch more fish because the poles are easily accessible.
In this video from CrappieNOW Editor Richard Simms, he demonstrates exactly how he has positions his Driftmaster rodholders for longline trolling.
Editor’s Note: Tim Huffman is co-founder and senior writer of CrappieNow Magazine. To see his crappie-fishing books, including his 2024 Papermouth…Modern Crappie Techniques visit www.monstercrappie.com